Ten questions and one recipe from Chef Maartyn Hoogeveen

Ten questions and one recipe from Chef Maartyn Hoogeveen

Unsworth Restaurant chef talks about career, food and wine.

  • Sep. 25, 2019 7:30 a.m.

– Story by Susan Lundy Photography by Lia Crowe

Story courtesy of Boulevard Magazine, a Black Press Media publication

Like Boulevard Magazine on Facebook and follow them on Instagram

Quick Facts

• Born and raised on a dairy farm in the Waikato, New Zealand

• Third year at Unsworth

• Previously: executive chef at Lochmara Lodge, New Zealand; sous chef at Emerald Lake Lodge, Field, BC; sous chef at Restaurang 28+, Gothenburg, Sweden (1 Michelin Star); sous chef at Craggy Range Terroir Restaurant, New Zealand (top winery in NZ).

Why did you decide to become a chef?

After graduating with an advanced diploma in hotel management, I decided that my favourite aspect of the course was the kitchen side. I grew up cooking with fresh produce from my parent’s orchard and garden, and using the farm-reared animals.

What’s the one ingredient you can’t live without?

Butter. They say the three secrets to French cuisine is butter, butter and more butter, and I couldn’t agree more. This may also have something to do with my upbringing on a dairy farm.

What is your go-to meal when you’re low on time?

Risotto of any description: it takes less than 30 minutes from start to finish, and can be made with anything you have lying around. The key to impress is finishing with the right amount of butter and Parmesan.

What would your last meal be?

Whole-fried fish. One of my favourite meals was from this little shack in Lagunas de Chacahua, Mexico, where I had whole-fried red snapper, and the fish was caught just one hour before I ate it. The best restaurant I’ve ever eaten at is Tjöruhúsið in Isafjorður, Iceland. It’s a little shed on the wharf with a long communal table and self service, using only fish that has arrived from the boats that afternoon, cooked in a variety of ways and served in sizzling-hot skillets.

What is the best recent food trend?

The trend of using fresh, local ingredients. This is the main philosophy of what we do here at Unsworth. Being fresh, the flavours of the ingredients speak for themselves. It’s very important to be able to connect directly with local farmers and producers who spend a lot of time, care and hard work to grow and make their products.

What is the most overrated recent food trend?

Making vegetarian products that look and taste like meat products. I do agree that we have to move away from a meat-heavy diet and that we should be eating a lot more plant-based food, but I don’t see the point in making something look and taste like meat when it’s not.

What is a good simple piece of advice for pairing wine and food?

Pick what will be either be your wine or the main component of you dish and do some research. I always try to stick with classic pairings.

What is your favourite cuisine to cook?

Mediterranean (French, Spanish and Italian, in particular). They always use fresh, local ingredients with techniques that have been perfected over centuries.

When are you happiest at work?

After a smooth, really busy service when we get to sit down as a team and have a beverage.

When are you happiest outside of work?

When I’m traveling, playing golf or on the cricket field.

Can you share an easy, seasonal recipe for a quick bite this fall?

Roasted Butternut Squash, Sage & Pearl Barley Risotto

2 cups butternut squash (diced 1 ½ cm cubes)

4 Tbsp olive oil

¾ cup pearl barley

1 onion (finely diced)

¼ cup Unsworth Allegro wine

3 cup vegetable stock

3 Tbsp butter (diced)

¾ Cup Parmesan (finely grated)

2 Tbsp sage (finely chopped )

4 Tbsp toasted pumpkin seeds

salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 280 degrees. Combine butternut squash, 2 Tbsp olive oil, salt and pepper on a roasting tray and bake for 15 minutes or until just cooked and lightly caramelized. Remove from oven and set aside.

In a pot, bring the vegetable stock to a boil and then turn down to a low simmer. In a separate pot over medium heat, add 2 Tbsp olive oil and the onions, and sweat until translucent. Add the pearl barley and cook for 1 minute, making sure it does not stick to the bottom of the pot. Add the wine and cook for 1 minute or until it has reduced down to nothing.

Add vegetable stock so it just covers the barley and cook down over medium–low heat until the barley absorbs the stock. Repeat until all the vegetable stock is used (should be 6 to 8 times). Once all the stock is gone, taste the consistency of the barley — it should still have a slight crunch to it but if it is not cooked, add some water and reduce down until the right texture is achieved. Add the butter and mix in quickly with a spatula, and then turn off the heat and add the Parmesan. Stir quickly until it melts and turns into a nice creamy sauce. Add three-quarters of the roasted butternut squash and the sage, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve immediately in bowls, putting the final one-quarter of roasted butternut squash on top as well as the toasted pumpkin seeds.

Enjoy with a glass of Unsworth Allegro.

Check out the restuarant menus here.

FoodFood and Wine

Get local stories you won't find anywhere else right to your inbox.
Sign up here

Just Posted

One of the Choices Lottery grand prize packages includes a home located at 16730 19 Ave., Surrey. (Contributed photo)
Two South Surrey homes featured in Choices Lottery

Tickets on sale now for BC Children’s Hospital lottery

Sources team members (left to right) Carrie Belanger, Abby Gemino, Tatiana Belyaeva, Yasmin de Joya-Pagal cheer during the 2020 Coldest Night of the Year event. This year’s event will be virtual due to the COVID-19 pandemic. (Sources photo)
White Rock’s Coldest Night of the Year fundraiser goes virtual

Annual walk raises funds for variety of Sources programs and services

An Amica White Rock resident receives the COVID-19 vaccine during a Jan. 15, 2021 clinic. (Tracy Holmes photo)
PHOTOS: South Surrey seniors grateful for ‘freedom’ of COVID-19 vaccine

Vaccination clinics at Fraser Health long-term and assisted-living sites were to wrap up Jan. 15

Fraser Health has declared a COVID-19 outbreak at a Surrey high-intensity rehabilitation unit, Laurel Place. On Dec. 22, 2020, Fraser Health said four patients and two staff members have tested positive for the virus. (Image: Google Street View)
Fraser Health says COVID-19 outbreak over at Laurel Place in Surrey

Health authority declared outbreak over Jan. 16

Pindie Dhaliwal, one of the organizers for the Surrey Challo protest for Indian farmers. She says organizers were told by Surrey RCMP that the event was not allowed due to COVID-19. Organizers ended up moving the protest to Strawberry Hill at the last minute. (Photo: Lauren Collins)
Indian farmers rally moves as organizers say Surrey RCMP told them they couldn’t gather

Protest originally planned in Cloverdale, moved to Strawberry Hill

An animated Gordie Hogg introduces his 'Community Connections' videos. (YouTube screenshot)
Community Connections: Gordie Hogg speaks with Scott Ackles

Former mayor, MP began posting conversations on YouTube in June

A health-care worker prepares a dose of the Pfizer-BioNTech COVID-19 vaccine at a UHN COVID-19 vaccine clinic in Toronto on Thursday, January 7, 2021. THE CANADIAN PRESS/Nathan Denette
COVID-19: Provinces work on revised plans as Pfizer-BioNTech shipments to slow down

Anita Anand said she understands and shares Canadians’ concerns about the drug company’s decision

Tourists take photographs outside the British Columbia Legislature in Victoria, B.C., on Friday August 26, 2011. A coalition of British Columbia tourism industry groups is urging the provincial government to not pursue plans to ban domestic travel to fight the spread of COVID-19. THE CANADIAN PRESS/Darryl Dyck
B.C. travel ban will harm struggling tourism sector, says industry coalition

B.C. government would have to show evidence a travel ban is necessary

(Phil McLachlan - Capital News)
‘Targeted’ shooting in Coquitlam leaves woman in hospital

The woman suffered non-life threatening injuries in what police believe to be a targeted shooting Saturday morning

Cannabis bought in British Columbia (Ashley Wadhwani/Black Press Media)
Is it time to start thinking about greener ways to package cannabis?

Packaging suppliers are still figuring eco-friendly and affordable packaging options that fit the mandates of Cannabis Regulations

sdf
Another Mission student arrested for assault, in 2nd case of in-school violence this week

RCMP notified of local Instagram page with videos (now deleted) showing student assaults, bullying

A unique-looking deer has been visiting a Nanoose Bay property with its mother. (Frieda Van der Ree photo)
A deer with 3 ears? Unique animal routinely visits B.C. property

Experts say interesting look may be result of an injury rather than an odd birth defect

Standardized foundation skills assessment tests in B.C. schools will be going ahead later than usual, from Feb. 16 to March 12 for students in Grades 4 and 7. (Black Press Media file photo)
B.C. teachers say COVID-affected school year perfect time to end standardized tests

Foundational skills testing of Grade 4 and 7 students planned for February ad March

Sooke’s Jim Bottomley is among a handful of futurists based in Canada. “I want to help people understand the future of humanity.” (Aaron Guillen - Sooke News Mirror)
No crystal ball: B.C. man reveals how he makes his living predicting the future

63-year-old has worked analytical magic for politicians, car brands, and cosmetic companies

Most Read